A versatile grape deserves to be celebrated every day
It is the time of the year when our taste buds prepare to welcome the hot summer months. Lots of aromatic whites, light reds and plenty of bubbly. And while rosé isn’t getting the breathless press it was a few years ago, wine afficionados are still drinking plenty of pink wine. However, in Cyprus May belongs to one variety: Xynisteri.
Around the world, many wine grape varieties are celebrated on a particular day. Look at the international calendar and you realize that celebrating grape varieties is gaining momentum, some are honoured in just one country while others are gaining international recognition.
These days give winemakers and their marketing teams, along with wine lovers, a chance to share their love of their favourite variety. Sommeliers create innovative menus pairing different styles of the celebrated variety, wine writers and bloggers have the chance to reflect on and relook at a certain variety, and there are both online and physical events.
For the third year, May 15 was hailed as Xynisteri International Day by Cyprus sommeliers, adding a date to the international calendar that already includes Maratheftiko on December 1 and Giannoudi on March 1. This year Xynisteri was celebrated on May 6 in Omodos by the Technical and Vocational school of Viticulture and Oenology. To present Xynisteri to the students and teachers, oenologists at Tsiakkas winery Ektoras Tsiakkas and myself as president of the Cyprus Sommeliers were invited to present all aspects of Xynisteri.
The presentation was about the Xynisteri behaviour in the vineyard, the various methods of winemaking using this variety and its perfect marriage with food.
Xynisteri is the predominant white grape variety of Cyprus. Over the last few years, we have seen examples of Xynisteri that took us all by surprise. We have samples now of Xynisteri ageing on lees for several months, using spontaneous yeast, wild ferment during fermentation, ageing in oak or acacia, creating complex orange wine, Xynisteri from single vineyards that express the terroir and lately sparkling Xynisteri. All these on top of the fact that Xynisteri, together with Mavro, is used for the sweet Commandaria and to produce Zivania.
It thrives on the limestone-dominant Cypriot soil, and it seems the best Xynisteri vines are planted at high altitudes, where cooler temperatures enhance the quality of the grape. The variety produces wines with flavours of lemon, peach and white plum. In oak, spicier, nuttier tones come to the fore. A good vintage of Xynisteri can age using any type of winemaking method.
Xynisteri is a good match for local cuisine. It pairs well with green salads, halloumi and feta cheeses, fish and meat meze, fried fish and calamari, sea bass or bream on charcoal and grilled lemon chicken. Also, pasta al pesto or with tomato and olives recipes. When oaked or aged, it is also a good match to souvlaki and char-grilled lamb chops. Such a versatile grape deserves to be celebrated every day, all seasons.
NV Constantinou Winery Xynisteri, Extra Brut, ABV 12.5%
A fine example of Cyprus bubbly using the traditional method of second fermentation in the bottle. Straw yellow colour with attractive golden hints. Fine and persistent bubbles. Clean, fresh aromas, dry and balanced. Some brioche, lemon zest, green apple and toasted nut flavours evaporate in a soft vanilla and citrus blossom. Delicate, elegant and complex with a long finish. €15
2024 Tsiakkas Winery, Xynisteri, PGI Lemesos, ABV 12.5%
One of the most popular Xynisteri-based whites with a touch of Malaga grape, from sandy, volcanic and loam calcareous vineyards, located at varied altitudes from Pitsilia, Kato Milos and Krasochoria. This model of consistency undergoes cool fermentation in stainless steel, maturation on lees and early bottling. Straw yellow colour, a combination of fruit intensity and a seeming lightness of being. Stone fruit, citrus and herbal aromas interplay, peach, nectarine and green mango fruit aromas framed in chalky minerality. Lemon, lime and pink grapefruit with some peach flavours in a saline palate, crispy, mouthwatering acidity, it finishes long and refreshing. €9
2022 Vlassides Winery, Alates, PDO Krasochoria, ABV 13%
Probably one of the pioneers in showcasing Xynisteri’s complex character and ageing capabilities. Produced exclusively from old non-irrigated vineyards in the Afamis mountain area. The soils where the vines grow are calcareous with clay-loam texture. Standard white wine vinification with time on its fine lees, in untoasted 2000 litre oak vats, the last vintage is equally serious and touch concentrated. It flaunts and has a powerful bouquet of white flowers, fresh herbs, apples, light tropical fruit and some bright citrus, wet stone and some sweet spices. On the palate, ripe stone fruit flavours, hints of thyme and sea salt with distinct minerality and racy acidity hold up well on a citrusy finish. €14
2024, Gerolemo Winery, Smileftis Wild Ferment PGI Lemesos, ABV 13%
Mainly from 40-year-old single vineyard near the winery in Omodhos, it is fermented on natural yeast. Bright, light yellow colour, and subtle herbal and floral notes, overlayed with peach and green apricot, ripe citrus and touches of minerality. Initially a slightly creamy palate, with focused mid palate fruit weight and texture. The medium acidity supports expressive and balanced flavours with some honey-crisp apple, stone fruit and herbs, through a refreshing and lasting finish. The wine will open up in the glass giving more depth and interest with each sip. €11
2023, Linos Winery Xynisteri, PGI Lemesos, ABV 12.5%
Notable, and loved, for its intense floral and fruity aromas, this light yellow coloured Xynisteri from Omodos region shows on the first swirl in the glass fragrances of jasmine, lemon blossom, ripe peach and stone fruit, intertwined with lime zest and delicate pineapple. Upon entry, soft mouthfeel buoyed by bright acidity. Concentrated peaches, melons and a good viscosity help the wine stand out. €6
2023 Papaioannou Winery, Xynisteri, PGI Lemesos ABV 12%
Fresh and zesty, juicy and medium bodied, this fruit driven wine is exciting but subtle. There is some tropical fruit with a fresh herbaceous character, balanced with zesty stone fruit and a dry finish. It reveals intense acidity on the long finish, the grapefruit peel is rewarding and pleasing. €8
