A pair of rebranded resorts are the perfect base to explore Cyprus by land and water
They say travel broadens the mind – and nothing proves the point more joyously than watching the Eurovision Song Contest on a giant outdoor screen with a hundred or so strangers drawn from more than a dozen different nations. The resounding chorus of cheers for the competing countries gave me a distinctly warm feeling – as warm as the balmy Cypriot evening we were enjoying together.
Cocktail in hand, I watched the song-filled show from the wonderfully relaxing Ammos Pool Bar at Mare Ayia Napa (pictured main). Formerly Atlantica Village Ayia Napa, the hotel reopened in spring along with a sister property in Paphos under the new ‘elevated’ brand Mare Resorts – and I was among the first to discover what these updated escapes have to offer.
MUSAN, Ayia Napa. Image credit: Shutterstock/Andriy Nekrasov
The 341-room Mare Ayia Napa is set on a sandy beach in the protected natural area of Cape Cavo Greco, a few miles outside the eponymous party centre. It’s an otherworldly landscape characterised by a limestone coastline, perfect for nesting colonies of birds and for the popular local sport of cliff-jumping.
Watching people leap from cliffs is a highlight of an afternoon boat trip with stops for swimming, snorkelling and paddleboarding – plus a long Mediterranean lunch – leaving us so relaxed it feels like we’ve been in Cyprus far longer than just 24 hours.
The next day offers more marine action with an introductory scuba diving session at the Museum of Underwater Sculpture Ayia Napa (MUSAN). Those who signed up for this undersea adventure came come back giddy with pleasure, having spent more than an hour among 93 submerged stone artworks by British artist Jason deCaires Taylor. Over time, the surreal sculptures will be reclaimed by the sea, providing a safe habitat for marine life.
As a non-diver, I opt instead to explore the Mare Ayia Napa’s spa, restaurants, bars and beach loungers. In contrast to the very family-oriented pools and water park, this sandy scene offers total tranquillity, making it a great option for couples and child-free groups.
Activities range from yoga and Pilates to craft classes and workshops in mixology, clay sculpting and DJ mixing.
The resort’s 16 bars and restaurants feature Mediterranean flavours at Aroma, Cypriot cuisine at Estia, fine dining at Asian restaurant Kayo, a dry-aged steak selection at the Meat and Salt Steak House and ever-popular Italian at Nico.
Meat and Salt Steak House. Image credit: Mare Ayia Napa
It’s here that we bid a fond farewell to Mare Ayia Napa with a pizza-making class, putting on our aprons alongside 30 or so young children. It was an absolute hoot and thanks to the army of chefs overseeing our creations, the results are surprisingly good.
Mare Paphos
A 90-minute drive away at Mare Paphos, the new brand’s upscale-yet- unpretentious signature is visible, albeit with a different vibe from its sister property. With a smaller footprint, there’s a more compact, village-like feel to the Paphos resort, all centred around a large main pool and neighbouring activity pool.
Facilities, eating and drinking options are as impressive as Mare Ayia Napa’s, but a contrasting landscape awaits in the Troodos foothills nearby.
The Troodos Mountains, Cyprus. Image credit: Shutterstock/Sabina Berezina
This is Cyprus at its most dramatic, with winding roads and dizzying switchbacks leading through acres of vineyards up to lush valleys bisected by waterfalls and dotted with Byzantine monasteries. Here we discover the small but growing wine industry, where visits to two wineries make clear the personality – and personalities – at the heart of it.
At Fikardos, one of the first privately owned wineries in the country, the son of founder Theodoros Fikardos has us sampling a few of the supremely sippable wines produced from some of the island’s 12 indigenous grape varieties. And at the larger Kamantarena winery, founded in 1954 as part of a local co‑operative, we all fell for the country’s most famous wine, commandaria – a dessert wine produced here since 1192.
A wine route can be traced through 14 commandaria‑producing villages, but having had our fill – with the encouragement of our host Irena, who even persuades us to taste Cypriot gin – we are ready for lunch, and climb higher into the mountains to find it at the Spring of Life Forever Taverna, which doubles as a craft brewery making its own bitter and IPA.
Plate after plate of simple but utterly delicious dishes, among them goat kleftiko, feta salad and beef stifado (stew), all accompanied by homemade bread, are brought to us, the quality and freshness of the ingredients evident in every mouthful.
After descending through the hills back to Mare Paphos, we reflect on the trip over sunset drinks at the resort beach. The differences between the two parts of the island are as striking as the two resorts we’ve visited, making a strong case for a twin‑centre trip. But no matter which side of the island visitors opt for, it doesn’t take long to fall under Cyprus’s warm‑hearted spell.
Image credit: Mare Paphos