The great thing about golf (at least when you are playing well) is that it leaves you craving more. Visitors tackling either of the Brian Curley-designed tests — Lake and Palm — at Chhun On Golf Resort just outside Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s capital, can take advantage of a spectacular extra helping in the shape of the club’s bonus hole.
Accessible only by boat, the short 19th features a tee shot over a lake full of koi to an island green fashioned like a map of Cambodia. It is an undoubted highlight of the experience at Chhun On. But visitors needn’t hit a nation-shaped putting surface to divine a sense of place while golfing in Cambodia.
“Cambodia is a beautiful and unique destination for golfers,” says Win Zaw, Cambodia general manager at leading golf tour operator Golfasian. “Cambodians are warm, friendly, and show care for guests, even more than many neighbouring countries.”
Cambodia certainly packs a lot in for a small nation. Few are unaware of the temples at Angkor near Siem Reap, and Phnom Penh has matured into one of Asia’s most happening cities, with a restaurant and entertainment scene to rival more established regional hubs.
Other draws, meanwhile, include the country’s south coast, which offers everything from alluring towns such as Kampot and Kep to paradise hideaways like Song Saa Private Island and Six Senses Krabey Island.
Although its highlights are many and varied, the kingdom has managed to stay under the radar as a golf destination. With several world-class layouts now in place, the nation has enough to sate the appetite of even the most exacting golf traveller.
Phnom Penh, the country’s rapidly developing capital, is the centre of much of the golf course construction action. Notable new names upping the ante include Chhun On and Vattanac Golf Resort, which has two championship courses designed by UK legend Sir Nick Faldo, and also a floodlit par-3 layout.
Off the course, the city showcases a growing selection of luxury perks. Rosewood Phnom Penh has redefined high-end accommodation in the city courtesy of its stylish rooms, top-notch dining spots, world-class Sense spa, and Sora, its ritzy sky bar.
Elsewhere there’s an alluring cafe society, swanky cocktail bars on hipster-friendly Bassac Lane, and a thriving eclectic restaurant scene. Local flavour is channelled through historic architecture, bustling markets, and the city’s stunning location on the banks of the Mekong River.
In Siem Reap, with the ancient relics of the once mighty Khmer Empire providing a suitably impressive backdrop, the Nick Faldo-designed course at the Angkor Golf Resort offers a compelling cure for temple fatigue.
“The potential for golf in Cambodia is unlimited,” added Win Zaw. “There is a new airport opening in 2025, which will further enhance the appeal of Phnom Penh for visitors, and the remaining infrastructure is already in place to ensure golfers are well taken care of.”
Vattanac Golf Resort, Phnom Penh
During the heyday of the Khmer Empire, Cambodian kings observed sports such as bokator, a martial art depicted in bas-reliefs carved onto the walls of Angkor Wat.
These days, the country’s modern elite are increasingly flocking to another royal and ancient pastime for their leisure thrills as golf gains a significant foothold.
The country’s incredible heritage is front and centre at Vattanac Golf Resort, where the East course — one of two Sir Nick Faldo-designed courses — features scale models of pre-Angkorian structures like Preah Vihear Temple, Bayon Temple, and Angkor Wat.
Other design nods to Khmer history include the square edges of water hazards, reminiscent of the moats that flank many of the relics at Angkor.
“Nick Faldo and his team were tasked with designing courses of the highest standard to enhance the reputation of golf in Phnom Penh,” said Chris Geraghty, general manager at Vattanac Golf Resort. “And to create something which respects ancient Cambodian history and architecture. In doing so they’ve produced a satisfyingly rich golf experience.”
There are numerous fantastic holes on the East course, which — with its liberal bunkering and lightning-quick greens — justifies its reputation as Cambodia’s toughest course. Standout holes include the 9th, a snaking par-5 with trouble all down the right side, and the 11th, a classic risk/reward par-4 where a solid carry right at the pin over water opens up scoring opportunities.
The newer Faldo Design layout at the club — the West— is a tighter track that plays with more intimacy than the East and is regarded by many as the equal of its slightly older sibling.
Chhun On Golf Resort, Phnom Penh
Renowned golf course designer Brian Curley created golf heaven at Chhun On Golf Resort.
Tasked with creating two championship-standard golf courses on a tract of floodplain north of Phnom Penh, he and his team created massive lakes to generate the dirt to tease the courses — Lake and Palm — out of the pancake-flat landscape.
In doing so, he managed to create a succession of challenging, memorable holes with the potential of rocking the world of any golf enthusiast.”We aim to prioritise the golf experience, crafting the finest courses in the country,” said Curley of the two layouts. “Each layout is distinct, fulfilling our ambition to provide a unique and varied golfing journey.”
The courses feature Zoysia – a grass variety renowned for its use in prestigious courses like Hoiana Shores in Vietnam and Singapore’s Sentosa Golf Club. This ensures top-notch playing surfaces and adds to the aesthetic appeal of the courses.
With the Palm course yet to open, golfers must content themselves with the Lake for the moment. Thankfully there’s plenty to savour about the course. Showpiece long holes the 9th and 18th provide spectacular closure to each half of the round with both featuring a lurking water hazard and an approach over a broad creek. Elsewhere, the 13th and 5th are picture-perfect par 3s that demand pinpoint accuracy.
Garden City, Phnom Penh
Opened in 2013, Garden City wasted no time establishing itself as one of the top options near Phnom Penh.
Thai designer Weerayudth Phetbuasak sought to create an enjoyable, but challenging course, and he achieved his goal.
He moulded an expanse of featureless rice paddies into an undulating challenge with numerous water hazards and fairways interjected by various mounds and moguls.
High handicappers will appreciate the spacious fairways, while low handicappers and scratch players won’t scoff at the 7361-yard course length.
There’s a liberal smattering of memorable holes on the course. Highlights include the signature 6th, a long par-4 with water all down the left and in front of the green. Also notable is the 15th, a short hole with a carry over water to a giant double green with wicked elevation from front to back.
Angkor Golf Resort, Siem Reap
The omens were good for Angkor Golf Resort from the word go. Sir Nick Faldo received a personal blessing from local monks before the course opened in 2007, and the layout remains among the premier tests in Cambodia to this day.
With its palm-fringed fairways and plethora of water hazards, the track is visually spectacular, and a sterling test of anyone’s game – with various tee box locations allowing both low and mid-handicappers to choose the right course length for their game.
There are several course highlights, but Faldo — no stranger to grand finales himself on his wildly successful time on tour — chose to save the best for last.
The par-5 16th is a 588-yard monster that is a prime test of psychological mettle. Water and a fiendishly angled green ward off long hitters going for the green in two, and a tricky approach over a deep bunker to the shallow green means that playing it safe is hardly a guarantee of par.
The par-3 17th is a tricky long, short hole, while the 18th is an absolute peach. Water runs down the left side of the 440-yard par-4, but those who opt-out to the right with their drive will face a difficult approach to the green with trouble waiting for anything marginally offline.
Where to stay?
Occupying the top 14 floors of the Vattanac Capital Tower, which soars 188 metres above the city, Rosewood Phnom Penh represents the lofty zenith of contemporary luxury in Cambodia’s capital.
The property has 175 rooms, including 37 suites, each with stunning city views. Elegant furnishings create comfortable, residential style living spaces. Other property highlights include a stellar line-up of dining venues, including Iza (Japanese), Zhan Liang (Chinese), and Cuts, which majors in premium seafood and meat cooked using a Josper Oven.
Another jewel in the city’s accommodation crown is the Raffles Hotel Le Royal, established in 1929. The grand historic hotel underwent a renovation in 1997 but retains its old-world allure.
Also popular with visiting golfers is Courtyard Phnom Penh by Marriott, which is notable for its prime city centre location and rooftop pool.
In Siem Reap, the most prestigious address is Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor, which opened in 1932 as a rest stop for archaeologists and adventurers exploring the ancient kingdom of Angkor Wat.
Source: CNA/bt