A day trip to Kalopanayiotis shows the island has more to offer than partying at the coast
By Philippa Tracy
Agro-tourism is one of those phrases that people throw about while other people nod vigorously in approval. It conjures up images of expensive, luxury farm villas in Tuscany, where you pay vast amounts of money to stay in a stylish villa with pool, cycle through beautiful countryside and drink Prosecco for breakfast. With an option to go truffle hunting and pretend to be a farmer for a day, obviously. This sort of thing is definitely on the increase in Cyprus, which must be a good thing one assumes. Diversifying the portfolio of tourist destinations outside of beach bars, nightclubs and foam parties can only be a positive. But what does agrotourism even mean?
When I think agrotourism, I think farming. Something I know nothing about; I am just a city girl. As a child in London I was occasionally dragged to the nearest Kent farm to pick strawberries. That was probably the closest I came to an early taste of agrotourism, although I had never heard the phrase back then. I don’t think anybody actually used it. At least not where I came from. That was in the days before Greta Thunberg was born, before the UK joined and then left the EU, losing the subsidies that went with it, as well as the seasonal workers. However, as an aside, I am pleased to report that there are still plenty of farms in the UK offering the opportunity to ‘pick-your-own’ strawberries, other fruit and even daffodils. Edible flowers is a thing these days too.
But agrotourism or agrit-tourism means something a bit different. The whole concept has become rather more popular in recent years, presumably with tourists looking for more ‘authentic’ experiences and also because of concerns about the planet and everything, from clothing to tourism, being sustainable. Which is all connected to another new concept, flygskam. It’s Swedish, of course, and it literally translates as flight-shame. There is a whole movement of people that thinks we should all feel embarrassed to fly because of the environmental impact. The problem with that idea, in relation to agrotourism, is that it could then only really be enjoyed by people in their own country or by people who can get there without flying. That might work in mainland Europe but it really doesn’t work for Cyprus.
The government appears to be actively involved in promoting agrotourism in Cyprus with a number of projects aimed at improving rural infrastructure, aesthetics and agrotourism itself. It allocated €4 million for rural revitalisation earlier this year. And clearly there are now many traditional villages being promoted as ‘agrotourism villages’. Of the 14 villages in the Marathasa mountain area alone, close to Nicosia, a fair number are now advertised for agrotourism. I decided to take a day trip out to one of them, Kalopanayiotis, with some friends to see what it was all about.
The village has its own website that describes the location as being about 70km from Nicosia, “in the evergreen valley of Setrachos river on the northern slopes of the Troodos range.” It sounds lush. And it is, very much so. When I went a few weeks ago, with the sun shining through the many pine trees and wildflowers on the banks of the river by the Venetian bridge, I thought I could have been in Devon or Somerset. It was glorious and there were very few people around to spoil the view. The water was clear and there are many trails along the riverbank to explore if you simply want to hike for the day or stop and picnic. There are also a number of other activities on offer from cycling and fishing to quad biking, fruit picking and a thermal spa. My friends were keen to visit all of the Unesco churches on the ‘religious route’ map. Me less so. So we decided to save that for another day.
Getting there wasn’t too difficult, although it took longer than expected. We headed towards the Troodos mountains from Nicosia and turned off the main road once we reached Evrychou. Google maps definitely wasn’t great and I had no idea if I had taken the right turn when it directed me through some very narrow and twisty village roads in Oikos. I was very glad to be driving my small car, though. Navigating those roads with a great big gas-guzzler, like my friends’ four-wheel drive, is a no-no on those roads. At least the way I drive. And then again, if you’re looking for an eco-experience, that maybe isn’t the car to be driving anyway. After nearly two hours on the road, we finally found a spot to park on the opposite side of the river to the village. We could go no further, with the car at least, as the bridge for cars just happened to be closed. Who knows why? But at that point, we decided we had definitely been directionally challenged enough and it might be safer to walk.
The point of agrotourism is to support local agriculture and promote sustainable tourism with clear economic benefits to rural communities. This sometimes happens directly through giving tourists a greater appreciation for local farming systems if they get involved in some of the activities on a working farm. Or indirectly, when tourists enjoy the benefits of the local environment, and consume local products, such food and wine. This also helps farmers diversify their income streams by renting accommodation or selling more produce to tourists or to the new luxury hotels that offer seasonal, locally-sourced food and other products. In Kalopanayiotis, we indulged in a bit of indirect support with food and wine. The lunch we had on the terrace at Casale Panayiotis was amazingly fresh, locally-sourced, and really reasonably priced. And the views were incredible.
I did also spot the Marathasa winery above the terrace of the hotel. It is possible to book a wine tour and a stay at Casale Panayiotis together on their website. This definitely seems like a perfect way to enjoy some of the local wine without having to navigate the dodgy mountain roads getting back. The hotel did look gorgeous too. Described as “boutique mountain accommodation,” where the guest rooms have all been individually restored in the traditional style. All rooms are located in one of seven village houses. From what I saw, that seems a pretty accurate and inviting description. And the “healing sulphur springs” of the thermal spa, include a number of inviting treatments, from good old massage to chocolate therapy and a private indoor whirlpool. Who could resist?
Strictly, I feel that agrotourism should involve something a bit more like staying on a working sheep farm and participating in a wool craft workshop. Or staying in a tent on a dairy farm, learning how to milk cows or make cheese and dining with my fellow eco-travellers. But no thanks! I’m all for the broader definition of agrotourism that involves Greek salads, local wine and chocolate therapies. Basically tourism without the smugness of eco-tourism. Tourism is one of the largest economic sectors in Cyprus. There is so much potential for great agrotourism experiences, in addition to the traditional delights of a night out in Ayia Napa. As long as you can fly to get here.