Trendy without trying too hard
By George Demetriades
Nestled in the heart of Nicosia, on evergreen Pindarou, Beba is a restaurant that seems to have mastered the delicate art of being trendy without trying too hard. You know the type, effortlessly cool, with a vibe that feels more like a friend’s well-curated dinner party than a formal dining establishment.
The first thing you notice about Beba is its atmosphere. It’s the kind of place where you can imagine lingering for hours, a mix of rustic charm and sleek design. Think exposed brick walls, warm lighting, and just the right amount of background chatter to make you feel at ease. The staff greet you with the kind of familiarity that’s disarming but not intrusive. It’s clear they’ve been well-trained, but more importantly, they seem to genuinely enjoy what they do, a rarity in itself.
Onto the food, which is where Beba truly shines. The menu takes traditional Greek and Cypriot dishes and gives them a modern twist – a concept that can often feel overdone but here feels refreshing. Take, for instance, the loukoumades with feta and thyme honey. Sweet, salty, crunchy, and creamy all at once. It’s the kind of dish that makes you wonder why you’ve been eating plain loukoumades your whole life.
The octopus carpaccio deserves a special mention. Thinly sliced and drizzled with a citrusy dressing, it’s a dish that manages to be both delicate and bold. And then there’s the slow-cooked lamb. Just wow! Tender, fragrant, and paired with a side of creamy mashed potatoes that could hold its own as a main course.
Portions are generous without veering into excess, and the prices are reasonable for what you’re getting, though this isn’t your go-to for a budget night out. Beba leans slightly on the pricier side but you’re paying for quality and creativity, and it’s well worth it.
If there’s one slight criticism, it’s that the menu could use a few more vegetarian options. While there are a handful of standouts, and the grilled halloumi with pomegranate glaze is a winner, vegetarians might find their choices somewhat limited compared to the feast available to meat-eaters.
The wine list, however, is a delight. Focused largely on Greek and Cypriot producers, it’s clear someone at Beba knows their way around a vineyard. The staff is more than happy to guide you toward a perfect pairing, and their enthusiasm is infectious.
Beba doesn’t try to reinvent the wheel, and it doesn’t need to. It’s the kind of place you’ll want to come back to, not just for the food.
VITAL STATISTICS
SPECIALTY Modern Greek/Cypriot
WHERE Beba, Pindarou 2a,b,c, Nicosia 1060
WHEN 12:30-3:30 pm, 7–11 pm Monday to Saturday, Sunday closed
CONTACT 22 252626
HOW MUCH from €40 a head including local wine